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Every fall, the sight of winter squashes in all their glory — stacked in bins at the supermarket, arranged in piles at the farmers market — brings me a shiver of joy almost as invigorating as the realization that I can finally turn on the oven at any time of day without worrying it’ll overheat the house. Roasting is my preferred way to cook so many vegetables, and these babies are no exception. My favorite varieties are the drier, firmer ones such as kabocha, acorn and red kuri, partly because they turn so nutty and caramelized in the oven, but...

“Tastes like chicken” has a lot of comic mileage because nearly everyone on the planet is familiar with the fowl. Chicken is on most any menu anywhere (except, of course, at plant-based restaurants, though plenty offer items that, um, taste like chicken). The largest meat-cooking section in most general cookbooks is of recipes for chicken. And, according to one grocer I know, “skinless, boneless chicken breast is the country’s most popular (animal) protein sold.” Even so, in a strange culinary roundabout, we’ve engineered most chicken — especially those skinless, boneless breasts — to taste like not much of anything at...