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Get Cooking: Colombian exchange — the chicken

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“Tastes like chicken” has a lot of comic mileage because nearly everyone on the planet is familiar with the fowl. Chicken is on most any menu anywhere (except, of course, at plant-based restaurants, though plenty offer items that, um, taste like chicken). The largest meat-cooking section in most general cookbooks is of recipes for chicken. And, according to one grocer I know, “skinless, boneless chicken breast is the country’s most popular (animal) protein sold.” Even so, in a strange culinary roundabout, we’ve engineered most chicken — especially those skinless, boneless breasts — to taste like not much of anything at...

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